This was the big one. Up to now our walks averaged between 12 and 15 miles a day but this was at least 18 miles. And it was the hottest day yet. Still, at least it wasn’t pouring with rain (think positive Clare!) We had a packed lunch with us although a slight stomach ache prevented me having much of an appetite.
We travelled into the next village of Gilsand, through a field and realised that, for the first time, we had lost our way and were roaming confusingly around some farmer’s meadow. Thankfully we found the path again and, once back on the trail, got our passport stamped at Birdoswald Roman Fort. Unfortunately, because of the sheer distance we needed to cover we did not have the time to look around. We came across the foundation of Willowford Bridge, where the Wall and Military Way crossed the river. According to my Trailblazer book, it was the final section of the Wall to have been built. The Romans extended the stone wall from Newcastle which would have joined up with the turf wall starting from Bowness-on-Solway.
It wasn’t long before we left Northumberland – and the majority of the visible wall – behind. At this point it was goodbye wild, hilly moorland and hello rustic farmland. Flat fields, hamlets and villages were our scenic companions today. My Trailblazer says that the Cumbrian land has been cultivated for centuries, destroying much of the wall. Hence the lack of Roman stonework seen today.
Near Hare Hill, where there was a small section of wall, we came across a coachload of people who were standing and walking all over it. We were a little surprised as we had heard people weren’t supposed to walk actually on the Wall.
Every time we came across a village (few and far between for the first half of our walk), I dreamt of having a comforting cup of tea in a little cafe. But no, we had to continue. So we carried on, striding through Walton (except for a toilet stop), Crosby-on-Eden (was it a mirage or did I spot an inviting pub here?!), Linstock, Rickerby (which boasted a tower in a field) and so on. A river amble broke up the field-after-field treadmill and we knew our destination was nearing when we spotted the buildings of Carlisle in the distance. One nice thing I remember was coming across little ‘honesty stalls’, unmanned boxes attached to farmhouses. Selling drinks to thirsty hikers, there would be a little box to put money in. We were among those dry adventurers who were refreshed after paying for fruit juices. After going through Rickerby Park and arriving in the suburbs, a passer-by helped us with directions and a short time after we finally arrived at out B&B. I was interested to see a sign outside saying that, under the guesthouse, lay the foundations of Hadrian’s Wall. When our landlord Roy told us about the dining options in Carlisle we really were spoilt for choice. Our exhausted legs just about managed to take us to a fish and chips takeaway around the corner, even my normally fit companion was walking stiffly. Luckily tomorrow was a rest day.
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